ELLEN VON UNWERTH
One of the most renowned contemporary female photographers, Ellen Von Unwerth
perfected her
craft
and built a tremendously successful career, gaining worldwide praise for her
depiction and
empowerment
of
women as subjects rather than objects.
At the beginning of the 1990s, when Hollywood actresses dominated magazine covers around the world, the German photographer contributed to the birth of the “Supermodel” cult. Ellen Von Unwerth is the photographer who helped launch the supermodel Claudia Schiffer in the early 1990s, first in a picture for ELLE and later with the Guess campaign that gave them both a big break in the fashion industry.
From these beginnings, she has been pivotal in turning fashion models into icons. As both a woman and a former model herself, Ellen Von Unwerth is in a special and privileged position in understanding her subjects. The photographer keeps pushing the limits of her art, celebrating female form, playful personality and overt sensuality, empowering women by presenting them as strong, free and independent.
In all her work, Ellen Von Unwerth’s charismatic and impish personality is ever present. Through her artistic process the unbridled personality of the subject is explored, revealed and then captured. The results are a body of work idiosyncratically saturated with an evocative whimsy, strident energy and emancipated eroticism.
With this online exhibition, Opera Gallery leaves you with Ellen Von Unwerth herself, who will walk you through these artworks, as landmarks of her exceptional career.
At the beginning of the 1990s, when Hollywood actresses dominated magazine covers around the world, the German photographer contributed to the birth of the “Supermodel” cult. Ellen Von Unwerth is the photographer who helped launch the supermodel Claudia Schiffer in the early 1990s, first in a picture for ELLE and later with the Guess campaign that gave them both a big break in the fashion industry.
From these beginnings, she has been pivotal in turning fashion models into icons. As both a woman and a former model herself, Ellen Von Unwerth is in a special and privileged position in understanding her subjects. The photographer keeps pushing the limits of her art, celebrating female form, playful personality and overt sensuality, empowering women by presenting them as strong, free and independent.
In all her work, Ellen Von Unwerth’s charismatic and impish personality is ever present. Through her artistic process the unbridled personality of the subject is explored, revealed and then captured. The results are a body of work idiosyncratically saturated with an evocative whimsy, strident energy and emancipated eroticism.
With this online exhibition, Opera Gallery leaves you with Ellen Von Unwerth herself, who will walk you through these artworks, as landmarks of her exceptional career.
This was a shoot for
American
Vogue and
we shot it in Paris. It was during
an
amazing
moment in time when Naomi was already a huge star, Kate was blowing up and they were having a
lot of
fun,
partying nonstop. We had a tonne of looks to get through but I shoot very fast so we ended up
running
out of
clothes. So I said: ‘Just put these hats on!’ and we shot them playing around in the bathtub,
sipping
champagne. The whole shoot was really just a party. I think this photo is so cute because it
really
captures
the friendship between them and that cheeky naughtiness they share. I love it for that.
Ellen Von Unwerth
Bathtub
Paris, 1996
Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell for Vogue USA
C-print on Fujiflex paper
120 x 180 cm - 47.2 x 70.9 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Pudding
Paris, 2011
C-print on Fujiflex paper
70 x 100 cm - 27.6 x 39.4 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Tree of Love
Bavaria, 2015
C-print on Fujiflex paper
70 x 100 cm - 27.6 x 39.4 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Parasol
2020
Claudia Schiffer for Vogue Italy
Black and white inkjet print on baryta paper
230 x 150 cm - 90.6 x 59.1 in
When I first shot [Claudia Schiffer] for Elle, they asked me to shoot this new German girl
for a
story
on what models do when they’re not working. She was tall and beautiful and I see many girls
like
that,
but
when I went home and looked at the pictures I saw this incredible resemblance to Brigitte
Bardot
which
got
me very excited. I’m a big fan of movies and I love 1950s-1960s films – I love Marilyn
Monroe
and Sofia
Loren and Brigitte Bardot, for me, is the most beautiful woman ever. So seeing that
resemblance
was
very,
very exciting. I booked her the next day again and gave her that Bardo-esque makeup and hair
and
the
pictures were candid and reportage style. The first campaign I shot with her was for
Katherine
Hamnett
and
later I shot her for Guess, which was such a success. It was surprise to me and everybody
that
it was so
successful. It was the real start of both of our careers.
Ellen Von Unwerth
The Mask
1991
Nadja Auermann for Vogue UK
Black and white inkjet print on baryta paper
230 x 150 cm - 90.6 x 59.1 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Naomi Campbell
New York, 1994
For Naomi Campbell’s album cover Baby Woman
Black and white analog print on Baryta paper
100 x 70 cm - 39.4 x 27.6 in
I’ve always loved to portray women who are strong, who are playful, who are
self-assured,
and who really own their sexuality, which is why I love working with Claudia, and Naomi,
and
all
those
girls.
Ellen Von Unwerth
Rich Bitch
Paris, 2004
Bianca Balti for Vogue Italy
Black and white inkjet print on baryta paper
120 x 120 cm - 47.2 x 47.2 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Kate Moss
Milk, 1995
Kate Moss for Vogue USA
C-print on Fujiflex paper
180 x 120 cm - 70.9 x 42.2 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Icons
New York, 2003
Kate Moss and David Bowie for Q Magazine
Black and white inkjet print on Baryta paper
180 x 120 cm - 70.9 x 47.2 in in
One of my favourites
exhibition
is
perhaps the one I
did
of Kate Moss and David
Bowie
because I was such a fan of his. I was so proud and happy to meet him and spend a few
hours
with
him.
It’s an
iconic image. I don’t think they knew each other beforehand and it was their first time
shooting
together. I
might be wrong, but I don’t think so. They’re both so lovely, generous, fun and outgoing
that
the three
of us
just felt we knew each other before.
Ellen Von Unwerth
ROAR!
London, 2016
C-print on Fujiflex paper
120 x 180cm - 47.2 x 70.9 in
Ellen Von Unwerth
Crash
New York, 2004
Elle Macpherson for a Jimmy Choo Campaign
Black and white inkjet print on baryta paper
230 x 150 cm - 90.6 x 59.1 in
I
love beautiful women, I love to show their personality, their sexuality. It’s
fashion
photography, but with fewer clothes.
Ellen Von Unwerth
Peaches
Rouilly-le-Bas, 2002
Black and white inkjet print on baryta paper
150 x 230 cm - 59.1 x 90.6 in
I don’t want to objectify women, or cast them only in this ‘sexy’ light. I want to see
every
side of
them. There are so many sid-none d-lg-none to women. That’s why some of my best shots
come
when
the girls
think the
camera has stopped rolling, you’re seeing something different to what they give you when
they
know
they’re being watched, a vulnerability.
Ellen Von Unwerth
Morning Dew
Paris, 2012
Black and white analog print on baryta paper
150 x 230 cm - 59.1 x 90.6 in
